What's the best option for converting a wood fireplace to electric?

How the conversion actually works

An electric insert drops into the cleaned-out firebox and plugs in — Dimplex makes the flame technology worth seeing in person before you decide. The step people skip, and shouldn't, is sealing the chimney: close and seal the damper or cap the flue, or your conditioned air keeps pouring up the stack all winter and the conversion costs you heat instead of saving it.

Depending on the unit, you may want a dedicated circuit — we coordinate with an electrician when that's needed and handle the hearth side ourselves.

What electric gives you — and what it doesn't

The honest ledger: electric is the least expensive conversion by far — the unit itself can be a few hundred dollars — with no venting, no gas line, no combustion, and a flame-only mode for looks on a July evening. What you don't get is serious heat. Figure roughly 5,000 BTU of supplemental warmth, enough for around 400 square feet, and zero when the power goes out. After Helene, that last line stopped being theoretical for a lot of WNC homeowners. Electric is a fine ambiance play; it is not backup heat.

When we'd talk you out of it

If this fireplace sits in the room where your family actually lives, and your winter bills sting, a gas or wood insert turns the same opening into a genuine heater — sealed gas inserts commonly run 70 percent efficient or better. We'd rather get you the right appliance than the quickest one. Come see the Dimplex flame burning next to a live gas insert at our Asheville showroom and decide with your own eyes, or call (828) 545-0525.