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Do I need to do small break-in fires to cure the paint on a new wood stove?

Yes. A new wood stove and its stovepipe need a series of progressively hotter break-in fires to cure the high-temp paint and let the cast iron or steel expand slowly instead of shocking it. Plan on two or three small fires, letting the stove cool completely between each, then a moderate one — before you ever build a full load.

Why wood stoves need the gradual approach

Unlike a sealed gas unit, a wood stove's paint cures with real, uneven heat, and its metal expands and contracts hard with every fire. Load it full and rip a roaring fire on day one and you risk warping, stress cracks, and paint that never cures right. Small fires first let the whole body come up to temperature evenly and give the paint the moderate, staged heat it needs to harden. The stovepipe paint cures the same way.

The burn schedule

Build a small kindling-and-a-few-splits fire and let it burn out, then let the stove cool fully to the touch. Do that two or three times. On the next fire, go a little hotter — a moderate load — and again let it cool. The paint will smoke and smell strongly during these curing fires; that's expected. Open a window, run the room's ceiling fan, and keep the area ventilated. Only after that staged break-in should you run the stove at full output.

Expect smoke, smell, and a tripped alarm

The curing paint puts off a heavy odor and visible smoke inside the room during break-in — more than people expect, and enough to set off a nearby smoke detector. It's the paint, not a chimney problem, and it won't happen again once the stove is cured. Follow your specific stove's manual to the letter — each manufacturer, Regency included, spells out its own curing steps. Questions on your install or first fires? Call (828) 545-0525.

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