Steady Flame Fireplaces
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Many Backgrounds. One Standard.

BTU (British Thermal Unit) measures heat — one BTU is the energy to raise a pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. On a fireplace, the BTU rating tells you how much heat it can make per hour. A 30,000 BTU gas fireplace is a solid room heater; a 5,000 BTU electric unit is gentle supplemental warmth. Bigger isn't automatically better.

The number that tells you how much heat

BTU per hour is the fireplace world's horsepower rating — it's how manufacturers express heating capacity. Our showroom units span a wide range: a Dimplex electric around 5,000 BTU for a bedroom's worth of ambiance and gentle warmth, a Napoleon Ascent 36 at 26,500 BTU as an everyday room heater, on up to a Regency wood stove around 55,000 BTU that heats up to 1,500 square feet.

More BTUs isn't automatically better — it's about matching the number to the space you're actually trying to warm.

Input versus output — read the fine print

Here's the catch most spec sheets bury: the big headline BTU is usually the input rating — the fuel energy going in. What actually warms your room is the output, after venting and efficiency losses.

A sealed direct-vent gas fireplace turns most of its input into usable heat; an open masonry fireplace can lose most of it up the chimney and, on a cold night, actually run a net heat loss by pulling warm room air out the flue. So compare like ratings, and ask which number you're looking at.

Right-sized beats big

We size to the room, not to the biggest number on the shelf. A rough starting point is around 20 BTU per square foot in a moderate climate — and our WNC winters, drafty older Asheville homes, and tall-ceilinged cabins push that up.

Oversize a unit and you'll run it low, cook yourself out, or short-cycle it; undersize it and it never keeps up. We'd rather get you the right appliance than the priciest one. Tell us the room and we'll size it — call (828) 545-0525.

Still deciding? Talk to a real installer.

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