What does converting a wood-burning fireplace to electric involve?

What's actually involved

We start by measuring the firebox opening so the unit — a Dimplex IgniteXL, for instance — fits cleanly, then we block off the old chimney so you're not losing conditioned air up a flue you'll never use again. The last piece is power: an electric unit needs a dedicated circuit, so we coordinate a licensed electrician for the wiring while we handle the appliance, the fit, and the finish.

Because there's no combustion, there's no venting, no liner, and no gas permit. That's what makes it the least invasive way to bring an old wood opening back to life.

Where electric makes sense — and where it doesn't

Electric shines when there's no gas main and propane isn't worth the trouble, when you want flame at the flip of a switch with no hauling wood or cold-start smoke, or when you just want the look with a little warmth. The Dimplex flame is the most convincing electric on the market, and it runs flame-only in summer.

Here's the honest limit: an electric fireplace puts out around 5,000 BTU — real supplemental warmth for a room up to roughly 400 square feet, not whole-house heat. And after Helene, this matters — electric is dead in an outage. If backup heat is your priority, a gas or wood conversion is the better path.

Our side of the job

We handle the appliance, the opening, and sealing the flue, and we coordinate the electrician for the circuit — we don't do standalone electrical as its own trade, but we make sure it's all lined up so you're not chasing separate contractors. Call (828) 545-0525 for a free in-home assessment, or visit our Asheville showroom to see the flame in person before you decide.