What are the different Real Fyre burner options and how do they differ?
Real Fyre burners break into four practical options: basic match-light, which you light manually and is the simplest and cheapest; a standing safety-pilot with a thermocouple that shuts gas off if the flame dies; variable-flame remote systems; and full electronic ignition with remote or thermostat control. Vent-free sets use their own ODS-equipped burners. The right one balances convenience, safety, and outage performance. Call (828) 545-0525.
From simplest to smartest
Match-light is the most basic: no safety shutoff, you light it with a match or lighter every time, and it's best where a gas key valve is right at the hearth. A manual safety-pilot adds a standing pilot and a thermocouple, the sensor that proves the pilot is lit, with a simple on/off knob.
From there it climbs. Variable or remote systems let you dial flame height from your chair. Full electronic ignition sparks on demand with a remote or thermostat and no standing pilot at all, and some versions carry battery backup.
The outage angle
This is where the choice earns its keep in Western NC. A standing-pilot or millivolt burner keeps working when the grid is down, because it doesn't need house power to run, exactly the lesson a lot of folks took from Helene. Electronic-only ignition may need battery backup to light during an outage.
If backup ambiance in a power cut matters to you, we'll steer you toward a millivolt or manual-pilot setup rather than a fully electronic one.
Matching the burner to set and fuel
The burner has to be sized to the log set and its Btu rating, and it has to be set up for your fuel. Natural gas and propane use different orifices and pressures, and out in propane country, Fairview, Candler, Brevard, and the cabins, that setup is different from an Asheville gas-main home.
We match all of it and make the licensed gas connection. Call (828) 545-0525.
How we can help
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